Travel Blog | JenGreenWriter + AdventurerSome day I hope to travel to all 50 states, but still a lot to go to reach that goal. U.S. travel may not seem as exotic as international travel, but the more you explore this country, the more you’ll likely find just how interesting and unusual it can be.
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Sister trip – May 2021
Colorado is one of those places that calls you back every so often. There’s something about the fresh air, miles and miles of mountains and untamed beauty that make you want to return again and again. I’ve been feeling the call for some time so when my sister mentioned she’d like to take a weekend trip there, it jumped to the head of the travel list for 2021.
I lived in Colorado in 2005, on the front range, so I had an idea of some of the old haunts I wanted to visit, if they fit into our schedule. It was just my sister and me, so we were able to pack in quite a bit. Traveling with another person always reminds me that I need to take more breaks. Maybe I don’t have to see EVERYTHING. For Colorado, that was certainly true since I saw quite a bit of the area we stayed when I lived in nearby Longmont.
Picking a spot for a quick weekend wasn’t tough at all. If you want to spend time outdoors and drinking good beer, both of which were on our list, it was an easy choice. Estes Park put us on the front doorstep of Rocky Mountain National Park and wasn’t far from three great beer cities: Boulder, Longmont and Fort Collins.
I tend to be an over-planner. However, I never let a schedule stop me from veering off track if something interesting comes up. The interesting thing about traveling to the mountains is that your to-do list is pretty much determined by the weather. But still, I had to have a bit of a plan – even if it was just an outline. My sister wanted to hike during the morning/early afternoon and then spend the afternoon/evenings trying different breweries. I was tasked with coming up with the plan for the hikes and she’d pick out some of the breweries she wanted to try. With a little help from my memory, the national park website and a Best Easy Day Hikes book, I plotted out a couple of hikes each day. The other must-sees for me were Nederland, a charming mountain town not far from Boulder, and the Stanley Hotel, inspiration for Stephen King’s, The Shining.
We landed at the Denver airport early on a Thursday morning. Just in time to make it to Lucille’s in Boulder for a late breakfast. Since moving away, I’d had dreams about Lucille’s porridge. I remembered it as a sugary, soupy almost rice-pudding-like concoction. I talked it up to my sister all the way there. “Can’t wait for breakfast at Lucille’s!” Sadly, the menu changed in the nine years since I’d last visited. We both ordered the oatmeal. I thought maybe I’d just remembered the name incorrectly and it was called oatmeal not porridge. Thankfully, we also ordered beignets. The oatmeal was cold, tasted like it came out of a package and had no flavor at all. Some memories are best not re-lived, I guess.
After stocking up on essentials at Target (a case of bottled water and snacks) we hit up our first brewery in Boulder, Oskar Blues. A charming spot right on Pearl Street, Oskar Blues is actually based in Longmont. The beer tasted wonderfully fresh at their Boulder location, though. Being in the front range of Colorado, of course the weather was amazing. Sunny 300 days a year and, fortunately, that hadn’t changed since I left! After downing a Slow Chill Helles and picking up a six-pack to-go, the sight-seeing portion of day one began.
I’m happy to say, at least by appearances, Boulder hadn’t changed much since the last time I visited (2012). The flatirons still provided a distinct backdrop to the eclectic town. When I lived in Longmont, I went to Boulder a lot. Great hiking, shopping and restaurants, all just a 15-20 minute drive away. Best of all, you can immerse yourself in nature very quickly. One minute you’re driving down a treelined street with houses on either side, the next you’re winding up the mountain looking out for climbers on the steep rocks above you.
We took the 119 Scenic Peak to Peak drive to Nederland, my nirvana. The short trip winds through beautiful pine trees and, at about the half-way point, a short hike to a roaring waterfall, Boulder Falls. It was early spring when we visited, so the rivers were full and flowing. If you’re staying in or near Denver for a day or two, I highly recommend a quick detour to Boulder to see the falls. It’s about a 40-minute drive from the Denver airport.
Continuing up 119 is the idyllic town of Nederland. It was a favorite of mine when I lived there for a few reasons – it’s quirky, it’s near Indian Peaks (great hiking!) and it has Katmandu, a yummy Nepalese restaurant. At 8,240 feet, it’s high enough to “feel” the altitude but not so high that I felt sick. Throughout the trip, whenever my sister or I (mostly me) would say something silly or miss a turn or forget something we’d jokingly blame it on the altitude. It wasn’t our fault … altitude!
Nederland sits next to a giant dam and reservoir and is surrounded by snowcapped mountains (at least in May it was). There are maybe three main roads, one grocery store and several quaint restaurants. Our first stop was the Very Nice Brewery. It’s located in what could be called a strip mall, next to the grocery store. The day was still sunny and warm – but not hot – so we chose to sit outside in the parking lot. The beer I tried had a subtle mint taste to it. Very good. Across the parking lot is an attraction I hadn’t been to before and couldn’t pass up on this trip: The carousel of happiness.
I’m sure there are other places in the world that have alpine carousels. But do any of them have hand-carved figures and feature an antique Wurlitzer? You can’t help but be happy when you ride it. The man and woman who sold us our $2 tickets (yes, just $2 to ride!) were about the friendliest people you’d ever meet. I could tell they had a passion for the attraction. We heard the story of the man who created it. He was in Vietnam he had a vision to build this carousel. With no prior carving skills, he took an old carousel and brought it back to life with fun, colorful carved animals.
Before heading out of Nederland to Estes Park, we stopped off for a drink at Knotted Root Brewery. Since I was driving and I’m not a big fan of sours, I didn’t partake but my sister very much enjoyed their beer. The atmosphere was much nicer than the other brewery. It was in a standalone building with cool artwork and a friendly pup greeting you at the door, but I preferred the beer at Very Nice Brewery.
The drive on 119 to Estes Park is a scenic byway. Beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. One of my favorite places to hike in Colorado is Isabelle Glacier in Indian Peaks. We drove up to the entrance, but unfortunately the road was closed, and the trail snow packed. Late May is still too early in the season for that hike.
After stopping several times to take photos along the Peak to Peak scenic route, including a great, relatively close-up view of Long’s Peak, we arrived at Lily Lake by around 5:00. Our first stop in Rocky Mountain National Park (Wild Basin Area). We were tired from a day of traveling and driving so we didn’t stay long. It’s a pretty lake though, and less than a mile’s walk around it, so I recommend it if you want a lake-hike experience without a lot of effort.
When we arrived in Estes Park, I was pleased to see it hadn’t changed much since I’d lived there. Maybe a few more restaurants, but not too big. We were pleasantly surprised to find out how close our VRBO cabin was to Rocky Mountain National Park. It sat between Estes and the park on route 36. Less than two miles!
The cabin was very nice – particularly for the low price we paid. Traveling “off season” has its perks. I was also excited to see a notice the owner’s left that warned us of bear activity in the area. Our cabin was just a short walk from the river, so it made sense that bear would be nearby. Starving at that point, we had a quick dinner at a so-so pizza place in town and called it a day.
After an uneventful night’s sleep – no bear sightings – we had a great breakfast at The Egg of Estes. Had to fill up on protein for the first hike of our trip. I’m not expert hiker, but I do hike a lot back home and when I travel. (See my Utah trip hikes.) My sister was just getting into hiking at the time of our trip, and I wasn’t sure how much the altitude would affect us. In the past, it had hit me at times – headaches, dizziness. So, I picked out some very easy hikes that we could knock out each morning. The first was Emerald Lake. What I hadn’t considered was the weather. It was early spring and that meant that many of the higher elevation trails were still snow packed. Our “easy” first hike turned out to be a bit more strenuous than I’d planned.
The good news was, we were well prepared for it, minus snow spikes. However, after seeing other hiker with spikes sliding around just as much as we were, I don’t think they would’ve helped much. We both had great hiking shoes. Keens are my go-to, no matter the terrain. My sister had Columbia boots that did really well in the snow. We dressed in layers. I had a moisture-wicking short-sleeve base layer, lightweight hiking pants, fleece pullover and unlined Columbia windbreaker. Though we were surrounded by snow, it wasn’t terrible cold even though the sun was in and out of the clouds.
The trail was completely snow packed. At times it was difficult to tell what was and was not the trail. Fortunately, there were many hikers out that day to guide our way. In fact, there were so many people it was a miracle we even got a parking spot at Bear Lake. (The park shuttles weren’t running yet, another factor to consider for a mid-May visit!)
This was my first snowy hike. I’ve hiked across glaciers before, but it was always at the end of the hike and not the entire hike. Hiking uphill in snow is a very unique experience. For one thing, it’s quieter. The snow insulates a lot of “hiker noise.” It’s also very slippery, so you have to take it much slower than normal. The trick I used was to hike slightly off the trail where the snow was less trampled. This worked particularly well coming down the mountain.
As we continued to climb to our first lake, Nymph Lake, I was concerned about what we’d find when we got there. Would the entire lake be frozen-over? It didn’t take long to find out. As we left the forest climb and came upon a flat, open area of the trail we found a frozen lake. I told myself it was a view of the lake a lot of summer travelers never get to see.
Circling Nymph Lake to head to the next lake was a bit difficult. The trail was almost non-existent until you reached the far end. In fact, we almost turned the wrong way and took a trail that headed back to Bear Lake by mistake! Eventually we got back on track and the more challenging part of our climb began.
In non-snowy weather, we could have hiked up to Emerald Lake and back (3.4 miles) in about an hour and a half. In snow, it took much longer. There are a few narrow passages heading up to Dream Lake, which meant we had to go single file. With some hikers coming down and others going up, this created quite a traffic jam. By the time we finally make it to Dream Lake, we had had enough of snow hiking and decided to skip the last leg to Emerald Lake.
Dream Lake was well-worth our effort, though. A gorgeous alpine lake with Flattop Mountain as a backdrop. We stopped for a while to take photos, eat a snack and just breathe in the refreshing mountain air. Though there were a lot of people there, it was still very tranquil and relaxing. It was hard not to linger there, but we knew we faced a challenging climb (slide) down the mountain.
And slide we did! My sister sat down and slid like a sled down one of the higher hills. I took little running skids to fake-ski my way down. Down was definitely much easier and faster, but also a little trickier. Slide a little too much and you might find yourself on the edge of the mountain!
My sister was a trooper. Her first alpine hike on a snow-packed trail. Not what I’d label as easy. If I’d been hiking alone and saw the trail condition, I’m not sure I’d have had the courage to continue, but so glad we did it. I now feel a lot more confident and ready the next time life offers me the opportunity to hike in snow!
We closed out our hike with a walk over to Bear Lake. It was lightly raining at that point, so we decided to call it day and clean up for an afternoon of beer tasting.
It was hard to pick just a few breweries to visit in Fort Collins. The town is home to so many. We decided to have tastings at each, rather than a full pint. I was the designated driver, so I had just a sip of my sister’s beer at some of these spots – but that was more than enough to enjoy the diversity of beers there.
Fort Collins is about an hour’s drive from Estes Park. Driving highway 34 is an experience itself, with a winding road following a roaring river into Loveland where you turn off to head north to Fort Collins. (Loveland is a lovely town. I used to work there when I lived in Colorado.) Loveland had a few breweries on our list, too, but there just wasn’t enough time to try everything. You could spend an entire week exploring all the different spots to enjoy beer in the front range.
Here are the breweries we visited in one afternoon/evening:
Indoor seating was still limited, due to COVID, so we took advantage of their great outdoor space – parklike setting and food trucks. We both had their light, refreshing Old Aggie lager on tap. New Belgium is widely distributed, so I’ve had their beer a lot, but nothing compares to experiencing a fresh pour at the actual brewery. Could’ve spent the entire time just at this brewery but there were so many others to try.
A fun, off-beat brewery, the Horse and Dragon is in an industrial park in a building with a silo that features a logo that reminded me of Game of Thrones. The beer was very good, but the atmosphere wasn’t up to the level of New Belgium. We sat outside in a very narrow garden-area that felt a little claustrophobic. There were signs to a beach-like area in the back, but we didn’t explore that part of the brewery so that may have been the place to be. Out of the four we visited, this was probably my second favorite, though. The Silver Lion Czech Pilsner was very good!
Funwerks wins the prize for the quirkiest and most colorful brewery we tried. Just around the corner from Horse and Dragon, it also lives in an industrial park, but its bright lime building stands out from its dingy surroundings. I’m not a fan of sours, but my sister is and enjoyed theirs very much. I enjoyed the cute logo on all their merch. It’s a small place, but worth a stop.
Equinox was the only brewery we tried that wasn’t in an industrial park. Located in the heart of downtown Fort Collins in a beautiful brick building, it was the perfect way to wrap up our tour. We arrived just before closing, but the staff encouraged us to stay and enjoy one last drink on their gorgeous patio. The atmosphere more closely resembled a St. Louis brewery. Less quirky and more historic feeling with the brick patio, wrought iron and café lights. However, just across the street we saw a videographer shooting a costumed character dancing in an alley, so maybe just a little quirky.
Before heading back to Estes Park, we made a pitstop at Mary’s Cookies. When I see a sign that says cookies and a long line out the door, I stop! Whatever type of cookie is your favorite, they likely have it at Mary’s. One is enough to share, but with this being our first time there, my sister and I picked out a few to sample later back at the cabin. The butterfly-shaped, iced shortbread was particularly good!
The next morning, my plan was for us to hike Sprague Lake. Entering the park though, I took a right instead of left, so we ended up at Trail Ridge Road instead. If you haven’t ever driven Trail Ridge Road, it’s a must-do. Terrifying at times with sheer drop-offs on all sides, it gives you an entirely different view of the park – above the tree line. Unfortunately, the road was closed for the season. It typically opens up after Memorial Day. It actually turned out to be a blessing because when they close the road you can walk it. We arrived at the parking lot early, so we were able to grab a spot. (By the time we left there was a line of cars waiting to get in.)
We started our hike at about 12,000 miles up. The air was thin but so clear and refreshing. We took our time taking in the view of mountains that were now at eye-level. At one point a commercial airline passed over us and I swear I could almost see the people in the windows. It was that close. Though the road was closed, it was clear. Ten feet of snow lined the payment. Once again, I was amazed at how quiet and peaceful it was. I could’ve keep going, but my sister is afraid of heights, and I wanted to fit in another hike that day.
As we made our way back down the mountain, a coyote crossed the road in front of us. That was the first of many wildlife sightings of the day. We exited the park on highway 34 so we could swing by Alberta Falls. There, we saw a mamma and a baby moose off in the distance. A bit further down the road we saw two bulls. Moose was on my list of things I hoped to see during the trip, so I was pretty happy about that.
We took a break to eat lunch at Kind Coffee in Estes Park. I had a hummus/sprouts concoction on a bagel and some of their house coffee. Both were very good, and we enjoyed our lunch in their outdoor seating area by a roaring river, likely the same one that flowed past our cabin.
Not wanting a repeat of the snow hiking of the day prior, that afternoon I found a short hike to a waterfall in the Wild Basin area of Rocky Mountain National Park. When I lived in Longmont, I never visited this part of the park. Not sure why because it’s a very nice area, though the road to Copeland Falls could use some work. You could call what we drove through potholes, but that would be very kind. I liken them more to craters. Fortunately, we were upgraded to a Jeep at the car rental place (I always book economy and almost always get upgraded for free. A little trick I learned when I worked for Budget Rent-A-Car back in college.) The Jeep handled the dirt road and craters just fine. If only we were so flexible! I can only describe it as when you’re in a very fast speedboat on rough waters. That bouncy feeling that tests the springiness of your spine. That’s what it felt like.
Eventually, we made it to the small dirt parking lot and snagged one of the last spots. The trailhead was further down the road, but the road was closed past that point for the winter. I was beginning to think we should have visited after Memorial Day! It was an easy walk, though.
Copeland Falls is more of a cascading waterfall. Not a sharp, shear drop like Boulder Falls. It was still very beautiful and, best-of-all, snow-free. I assured my sister that this was what my Colorado hiking experience had been. Dusty or rocky trails through beautiful woods and ascending mountains with the sold ground beneath your feet. I think she believed me.
Afterwards, we were ready to clean up and hit the Estes Park beer scene. Our first stop for beer wasn’t a brewery, though. We began our night at the historic Stanley Hotel. The weather was just starting to turn bad when we left our cabin. By the time we made the short drive to the Stanley it was pouring rain. After a bit of difficulty finding the entrance, we parked and made our way to the bar. The hotel was packed. Some were waiting for dinner. Others were lookie-loos like us. Because it was so crowded and the pandemic was still going on, we weren’t allowed to sit at the bar, but we could walk in and order from it. It felt like stepping back in time. Beautiful wood. Delicate glass lampshades. Rows and rows of liquor. With all the noise and bodies, it was hard to feel spooked there, but I could see how such a place could inspire Stephen King to write The Shining.
We took our drinks out on the porch overlooking a giant maze, like in the movie. It was foggy then, the perfect mood-setter for a haunted hotel.
One $8 beer a piece was enough for us, so we moved on to two local breweries. The first was Estes Park Brewery. We had a bland dinner paired with decent beer. It didn’t have a brewery vibe at all. It felt like an old video arcade that had been converted into a restaurant. The beers did have fun names though, like The Shining Pale Ale and Bear Lake Blueberry Wheat.
Next stop was a place that had a more traditional brewery feel, but very small by most brewery standards, Rock Cut Brewing Company. The beer was great and the service even better.
We closed the night with a stop at The Barrell. The Barrell isn’t a brewery, but they had a lot of good beer on tap. It had started raining again and was getting a little chilly, so we ended the night early.
We woke up early our last day in Estes Park, hoping to squeeze in one more short hike before heading to Longmont, then on to Boulder. It was a beautiful, sunny Sunday and apparently everyone had the same idea. The line to get into the park stretched almost to our cabin. After waiting about 20 minutes and not moving, we abandoned that plan and said goodbye to Estes Park.
We took highway 36 to Longmont, passing through another one of my favorite little towns, Lyons. Left Hand Brewery was our first stop in Longmont. When I lived there so many years ago, I remember going to Left Hand Brewery, but I don’t remember it being as big or as much fun. The waiter was amazing. He let us sample anything we wanted and was extremely knowledgeable about the beer. It was the most hospitable brewery we visited. Plus, you just can’t beat the view of Longs Peak from their patio area. It was hard to leave but there were more breweries to see!
Next on my sister’s list was Wibby Brewery. It looked like a fun place, but when we learned that they only took cash, we left and headed to Bootstrap Brewing Company instead. I tried a fun pineapple flavor beer that I really enjoyed. The atmosphere was like that of a tropical beach bar. As we ordered our beers inside, I noticed a couple of tables of people with ukuleles on little stands. I thought it was a little odd, but we were in Colorado, and it can be odd – in a good way.
We took our beers outside to enjoy the sunshine and I watched as car after car arrived, filled with all ages of people, all entering the brewery with ukuleles in hand. I guess it was a Meet Up Group? I didn’t want to stick around to find out. Nothing against the ukulele but if I’m hearing one, I’d rather it be in Hawaii.
By that point, it time for lunch so we needed to find a brewery that sold food. We found it in Boulder at Avery Brewing Company. Once again, I learned that great beer lives in industrial/office parks. Avery had great food and even better beer – even if we did have to eat it off of a barrel. Apparently, everyone eats lunch at 2 p.m. in Boulder and they all go to Avery. The wait for a table was an hour, so we opted to stand outside and eat off of a beer barrel that served as our table – no chairs. Our stay at Avery was short – not because of the awkward eating conditions – but because a strong wind suddenly hit the town. I’d never experienced anything like it. It was sunny and beautiful but just suddenly very, very windy.
There was one last place I wanted to show my sister before we headed to Pearl Street and then the airport – Flagstaff Mountain. It was a short, scenic drive with sweeping overlooks of the city below. At the top, we took a short hike around the park. Very short, due to the wind. It was very beautiful, but after four days of seeing spectacular scenery, it just didn’t measure up.
We ended our trip on Pearl Street, killing time before our flight home. We packed a lot into a short time, and I left feeling a little nostalgic for my former life in Colorado. I wasn’t sad, though, because I knew I’d be back. Not long from now, the mountains will be calling me once again.
Colorado is a big place. If you only have four days, I recommend sticking to one area like we did (though the front range is a fairly large area). We thought about squeezing in a day in Denver or Colorado Springs, but it would’ve been a much more stressful trip with a lot more car time than either of us wanted.
Another word of caution – follow the national park rules and posted signs. Every year tourists die from falls – off trails or into the rushing water of creeks and streams. Don’t risk it.
At one point during the trip, we overheard another tourist say, “you really have to be a kid from the Midwest to appreciate this.” His point was that people who grew up around the mountains and spectacular park views probably took them for granted. It made me think about my home and the things I take for granted, like the great food, architecture and history we have in St. Louis. A good reminder to double-down on being a tourist in your own town!
Finally, if you’re traveling to Colorado in the spring, know that some trails and roads may be closed and those that are open might still be snow packed.
Day 1
Lucille’s in Boulder for breakfast
Oskar Blues
Scenic Peak to Peak drive 119 to Boulder Falls
Nederland
Lily Lake
Evening in Estes Park
Day 2
Hiked to Dream Lake
Saw Bear Lake
Fort Collins breweries
Day 3
Hiked Trail Ridge Road
Drove the north side of the park (34)
Coffee and lunch at Kind Café
Copeland Falls
Drink on the porch of the Stanley hotel
Estes Park Breweries
Day 4
Highway 36 to Longmont
Longmont breweries
Avery Brewery in Boulder
Pearl Street
Flagstaff Mountain Overlook
A trip to Utah has been on my list for a very long time. I had the guide books. Already had a loose itinerary. I’ve “almost” traveled to Utah at least three times. Seeing all 5 Utah national parks seems like a no brainer trip for an adventurer. So why did I wait so long? The truth is, it’s not the cheapest trip in the world and it takes at least a week to do it right. The past decade or so I honestly just kept finding better deals to tropical destinations and Europe, so Utah took a back seat. Was it worth the wait? Yes, yes and yes.
Get the whole story, below. Or scroll to the end for a quick itinerary.
Here’s the whole story (well, at least as much as I’m willing to tell!) …
I haven’t spent a lot of time in deserts, but they’ve always interested me. You might wonder why I would choose such a desolate place in the middle of a pandemic. Didn’t I have enough “alone” time at my home? Deserts have a reputation for being lonely. Somewhere you go to get away, contemplate – maybe even runaway. Be tempted. Go to die? Catch a spaceship to another land, if you believe in that sort of thing. They have kind of a bad rap, actually.
The truth is, the introvert in me found the desert oddly comforting. The vastness and isolation actually felt more alive than some big cities I’ve visited. Out in the desert things have to struggle to survive. Learn to do more with less. The things that live in the desert are tough. They thrive and survive because they fight. I found that intoxicating during my short stay there. (It’s hard to understand unless you’ve experienced it.)
But enough philosophizing! Here’s what I saw and did. Hope it inspires you to put the great state of Utah and its 5 national parks on your must-see list.
I chose Salt Lake City as my entry point from St. Louis. Just one night in Salt Lake before heading south to Moab. I don’t feel like I can accurately review SLC because of COVID. Things were closed. Streets were mostly empty. What I did see, I enjoyed. I landed about 6 p.m. and had dinner at a nice Mexican restaurant downtown, Taqueria 27, on the recommendation of one of my coworkers. Then I made my obligatory stop at Walmart. (Any time I travel somewhere I’m going to do a lot of hiking I stop at Walmart to buy a case of water. Since I was visiting the desert in height of summer, I bought two cases. Spoiler alert – I drank every bottle by the end of my trip!)
Next stop was a drive through Big Cottonwood Canyon. I really wanted to do Antelope Island but there just wasn’t enough time. For the couple of hours that I had, Big Cottonwood Canyon was nice. I drove up and snuck in a quick walk around Silver Lake before sunset. I forgot how cold it gets when the sun goes down in the mountains. It reminded me of the brief time I lived in Colorado.
The next day I made the four or so hour drive to Moab, after trying a local donut shop. My travels always include a stop for donuts and just outside of Salt Lake I found just the shop – Donut Boy. Very interesting flavors – banana cream, blueberry cheesecake, toasted coconut – to name a few.
The drive to Moab was pretty, but not breathtaking. I spent most of it listening to podcasts. It was the most driving I’d do during the trip and it’s why I flew into Salt Lake rather than Las Vegas. I wanted to get the least interesting drive out of the way. Just outside of Moab, I saw the turnoff for Canyonlands and Dead Horse State Park. I decided to wait to check into my Moab hotel and hit the parks instead. Eager to start exploring!
First stop was Dead Horse State Park. What a beautiful view. I spent a bit of time walking around the edge and taking in the vastness. It wouldn’t be the last time. This area of Utah feels like it goes on forever. The park had some really super bright blue pools. I learned they were actually dyed. The dye is there to slow down the evaporation of the water. I didn’t see any wildlife except for a bunch of chipmunks. And boy were they the skinniest chipmunks I’ve ever seen. The only hiking I did was around the rim. Just enough to get pictures in and see the view. I was itching to get to Canyonlands.
Canyonlands is just a bit further down the main road. They call the road, “Island in the Sky.” Heading into the park I stopped to get my obligatory photo of the national park welcome sign. Then, off to the visitor’s center. There wasn’t much to see at the center. COVID shut down a lot of exhibits at all of the parks. So, I didn’t linger long. The park is so huge, I knew I’d need time to drive to my first destination: Murphy’s Point.
Murphy’s Point was a dusty, fairly flat trail straight to the edge of the cliffs with magnificent views of the canyons. A perfect first stop. When you’re hiking in Canyonlands, you’re exposed to the elements. No tall trees and zero shade. You definitely need to bring a hat lots of water. The temperature hovered right around 100 but wasn’t intolerable. Absolutely worth it for the views at the end. It was also a pretty desolate hike. I saw one young couple on my way in and a man and his small boy on the way out. That was it.
The next area of Canyonlands I explored was Grand View Point. Once again, I was struck by the canyons that seemed to go on forever.
Tired and hungry, I decided to finally head into Moab to check into my hotel, passing Arches National Park on the way and wishing I had more energy to stop.
That night I rewarded myself with a steak at Moab Brewery. As much as I like to try out local donuts when I travel, I also like to take in local beer. The brewery was right across the street from my hotel. Since I was traveling alone, and things were more spaced out due to COVID, I sat at the bar. Sitting at the bar was something I learned to do on solo trips.
1. It makes you feel less awkward than eating alone, particularly at a nicer restaurant.
2. You often get to talk to the bartender and learn about the town – their favorite spots that maybe aren’t in the tour guides.
3. You sometimes get to meet other travelers or locals. Sitting at a regular table, unless it’s community style, which doesn’t happen during COVID, doesn’t let you do any of those things.
I was just starting my meal when a man who looked like a dusty, hippie version of Santa Claus walked up to the bar and pointed to the bar stool next to me that was holding my backpack. “Anyone sitting here,” he asked. I froze. In the few seconds that passed my mind raced. I put my bag on that stool to distance myself because … pandemic. Technically, no one was sitting there but my backpack was. I looked helplessly at the bartender for help. He offered none. The man asked again and I managed to stutter out a “no” and removed my backpack from the stool. He looked as though he had been out in the sun and dust all day. He probably needed the seat more than my backpack but I was still annoyed because … pandemic.
After I’d finished my steak and drank another beer, he started talking to me. He had a gruff tone at first, probably because I hesitated to give him the seat and put my backpack’s welfare over his. As we talked on, however, he warmed up quite a bit and I spent the next hour or so chatting with him about places to visit in the area, his family drama and my dreams of being a tour director. Turns out he was one. A tour director. As a profession! I couldn’t have picked a better person to sit next to and I almost shooed him away. Life is funny like that. He gave me his card and directions to some petroglyphs he told me I had to see on my way to Capitol Reef. He also recommended a great book to read about the area, Desert Solitude by Edward Abbey. It was such an enjoyable evening and a great end to my first day in Canyonlands/Arches.
The next day I woke up early, had a quick breakfast at the hotel (bagged breakfast instead of buffet because of COVID). I was eager to get to Arches. Fortunately, it’s just a short drive from my hotel and just outside of Moab.
The entrance, which I was told by the tour guide the night before was actually the “new” entrance, was unbelievably impressive. You spiral up a switchback on a cliff, turn a corner and the desert playground opens up before you, sprawling and magical. I literally gasped, I was so moved. There’s something about the vastness, the colors – even the air – that make it such a distinct place. I’ve heard it compared to Mars. I haven’t been to Mars (yet!) but it did feel otherworldly for sure. From that moment on, I knew it was going to be a great day.
I resisted the temptation to stop at every lookout on my way to my first hike. The guide books said to do the hike early, before the heat of the day. Any delay would be another uptick on the thermometer. My destination was the trailhead for the Delicate Arch hike. The parking lot was packed. I was almost afraid I’d have to leave and come back later when a spot opened up. In normal, non-pandemic times I was later told, the park was actually quite empty. To me it was pretty crowded.
The hike wasn’t easy but it also wasn’t hard either, though I’ll admit it took me a lot longer than I planned due to the heat and the altitude. There’s also a steep climb up a sea of slick rock with no shade that pretty challenging. But it’s all worth it once you finally reach the top and see Delicate Arch, perched on the edge of a big bowl of rock. People were waiting in line to have their picture taken with the arch. I settled for an awkward selfie from afar. (The downside of traveling alone and not wanting a potentially COVID infected person handling my phone.) The hike down was much faster and easier. I was eager to get back to the car and get my fill of water. They say to bring a lot with you when you hike. I drink a ton of water anyway. In 100-degree heat, I tripled my normal amount. This is where the soft-shell mini cooler I packed and filled with hotel ice came in handy. I kept six bottles chilled at all times. When I removed one, I replenished the cooler with a warm bottle from the trunk of the rental car. I went through two cases of water, 48 bottles, during my weeklong trip.
Next up on the agenda was a shorter, easier hike in Devil’s Garden to Landscape Arch. My original plan for the day was to hike the Fiery Furnace. It’s a guided hike with a park ranger. I booked it in advance but, because of COVID, they canceled it. Reason to return to Arches at a later date, I guess!
Landscape Arch looked more like a “delicate” arch to me. It’s fairly thin in the middle. Looks as if it could break with just the slightest push. It is beautiful, though. I crammed myself into a tiny spot in the shade to enjoy it before starting the scorching walk back.
Let me be clear – I love the heat. I think I may have been part lizard in my past life. When normal people complain about “how hot it is,” I am usually cold. I prefer it 85 degrees and above. But I quickly learned in Utah that there’s heat and there’s July daytime desert heat. Oh, a dry heat, you may be thinking. Sure, it’s dry. But that doesn’t make it any less hot or sometimes intolerable. How you keep it tolerable is by drinking a lot of water. A lot. Like six bottles a day. The other way you tolerate 100+ degree temperatures is by taking it easy. Take a lot of breaks in the shade. That’s how you hike an average of seven miles a day and wake up the next day ready for more. All that said, after two hikes in the heat, I was ready to take a break so I went into Moab to have lunch and do a bit of shopping. Despite COVID, a lot of the shops were open and I did my best to infuse cash into the Moab economy. Unlike many tourist towns, I found the shops to be very reasonable.
After about an hour of shopping, I felt refreshed enough to head back to the park. I spent the rest of the afternoon explorzing other areas of Arches, starting with balanced rock. Balanced rock is as advertised. It’s a large rock balanced on another rock. Sounds pretty basic and boring, but in reality, it’s captivating. I spent more time circling and photographing that rock than I ever imagined. There’s a very short “trail” that surrounds it. I recommend walking around it. It looks completely different from every angle. Mesmerizing.
The next stop was double arch. Again, the description matches reality. It’s two arches, but instead of what you might think – two arches side by side or one stacked inside another – it’s actually two intersecting arches that form a huge cavern=like structure. Makes for some amazing photos and a nice shady spot to rest. It’s really hard to describe the feeling you get from the rocks. They aren’t just inanimate objects. They “breathe.” Not in the traditional sense, of course, but they do truly seem alive. You really have to sit still, turn off your phone and listen to them. I know at this point I sound like a crazy person, but if you’ve spent a lot of time in nature being still, you might understand what I mean.
That night I decided to skip dinner and head to Canyonlands to watch the sunset and maybe catch a glimpse of the Milky Way. I drove out to Green Point and set up my iPhone on my tripod and started the time lapse video. I quickly learned that when you have an almost unending, expansive view of the sky the sun takes a lot longer to set. It was a nice show though and after dark the park is an entirely different place. The stars were bright, as promised, but I didn’t see the Milky Way. I think 9:30 may have still been too early and too light out. While driving back through the park to head to my hotel in Moab I did see a bit of wildlife though. Mule deer, a coyote and a bunch of bats and rabbits.
The next day I took the tour guide who I met at Moab Brewery’s advice and drove out to a Sego Valley to see three different eras of petroglyphs. As a woman traveling alone, I was a bit apprehensive of the dusty, deserted road to the petroglyphs. I was alone out there and didn’t stay long, but it was worth the bit of discomfort to see the carvings.
My next stop was Goblin Valley State Park. This part wasn’t originally on my itinerary, but was recommended to me by a family member and I’m glad I took the quick side trip to see it. The “goblins” aren’t like anything I’ve ever seen and they only occur in a few spots in the world. I spent about a half hour walking amongst them and taking photos. The day was hot and there’s very little shade in the park. It’s a smaller park. Something you could easily explore in an hour or two.
It was just after lunchtime at this point and I was eager to see my next national park: Capitol Reef. It’s not as famous as the other Utah national parks and after visiting it I kind of understand why. It’s a beautiful and interesting place for sure. But it lacks the cohesiveness and structure of a typical national park. I realize this is coming from a person who lives next to a national park that is truly just a monument (the Gateway Arch national park), but even that park has a central focal point. Capitol Reef does not. It has some arches. It has canyons. It has trees and cliffs and streams. It even has petroglyphs. All the fixings for a good park are there. But it lacks one jaw-dropping, key feature. I did hike two pretty nice trails during my afternoon in the park. Hickman Bridge, which isn’t a bridge at all – it’s an arch. (I learned that some arches are called bridges.) It should’ve been an easy hike, but once again the heat, lack of shade and altitude made it more challenging than I expected.
After a brief break to check out the visitor’s center, I hiked Capitol Gorge to the “tanks.” The hike is in the gorge so it was nicely shaded late in the day. It was also very flat. A nice breather after climbing in the sun. I was a little nervous hiking this trail alone. It seemed so desolate. Not like your typical crowded national park. It was also early evening and I worried that mountain lions, bears and other carnivores might be heading out for a meal. I only saw one other person the entire hike. I should mention that the drive to Capitol Gorge is a little challenging on a compact car. I might have hesitated to take my personal car there, but having a rental car, I risked it. The road isn’t paved. It’s only wide enough for one car, is very curvy and I found that jeeps like to take those turns really fast, particularly when they’re coming at you head-on! It’s only a two-mile drive on the unpaved section, but it took me about 15 minutes. Did I mention there are also many potholes? Still, #worth it.
On my way out of the park and on to Torrey (just a few miles down the road), I stopped for one last look over the park from the main scenic overlook. The “castle” rock formation is particularly impressive from that vantage point.
I spent the night at the Broken Spur Inn in Torrey, one of maybe two hotels in the area. It’s a small, but friendly motel. Drive up to the room. Western décor. Very comfortable. They also had covered wagons you could rent for the night. I was happy I chose the motel, though, since it cooled off quite a bit that night. I treated myself to another steak dinner. Seemed like the thing to do in Utah and it filled my steak quota for the year. That steak was the best I’ve had in probably 10 year. Amazing.
The next morning, I ate the free breakfast at Broken Spur, figuring it would be grab-and-go like the other hotels, but to my surprise it was a full buffet spread, complete with bacon, eggs and pancakes. Once again, I was thrilled with the quality of food and excellent service I received. If I’m ever out that way again, I’ll definitely stay at the Broken Spur.
Continuing on my trek south, I took the Scenic Byway 12 to Bryce Canyon. Scenic definitely describes it. The variety of scenery was what really impressed me, though. Hills, valleys, mountains, streams, rock formations, canyons. The drive has it all. For the first time in a while, I saw heavily forested areas. Just when I got used to those, more rocky hills and mountains. I was stopping the car literally every few minutes. One of the highlights of the drive was that I got to see an actual real-life cowboy crossing the road with his cattle. It was like something out of a movie. I could see myself settling into life in Utah.
Bryce Canyon National Park
After stopping for lunch in Tropic, I entered the Bryce Canyon area and what I like to call the Vegas of Utah, Ruby’s Inn. Ruby’s Inn is one of a handful of places you can stay near Bryce, if you’re determined to stay in a hotel, which I was. Plus, it’s a great location. Just outside the park entrance. However, with flashing lights, a virtual city of old West shops and ice cream parlors and restaurants it offers up such a stark contrast to the natural beauty of the area. Even during COVID the place was booming (everyone wore masks and social distanced, though, of course). Despite the cheesiness of the place, the room was comfortable. The service in the restaurants, gift shop and check-in were a little lacking, but that could be due to being short staffed because of the pandemic. After check-in I quickly left the complex to get in a couple of afternoon hikes before sundown.
Bryce was about as opposite from Capitol Reef as you could get. Very organized. Very civilized. And very crowded. It was a bit of a shock after the other three national parks. Despite the people and the lack of parking, it turned out to be one of my two favorite parks in Utah. What makes Bryce so special isn’t just the hoodoos, or rock formations. It’s not the giant amphitheaters of rocks contrasted against deep green pine trees. It isn’t the massive vistas or the cooler temperatures (compared to Arches). It’s the feeling you get when you descend the long switchbacks into the floor of the park and are suddenly transformed into another world. You feel small, yet not insignificant, as you take your place among the trees and sandy trails, walking between the hoodoos. I hiked two trails that afternoon – Navajo Loop and back up, then Queen’s garden down and up. If I had paid more attention to the map, I would’ve realized that the two trails meet up. Instead, I hiked them separately. Don’t make my mistake! I recommend hiking down the Navajo Loop, going to Queen’s Garden, then heading back up to Sunset Point using the Queen’s Garden trail. Unfortunately, the hike starts up and ends up, so the hardest part is at the end, whichever path you take, but once again – it’s worth it.
After my double loop hike and a quick drive around the park to see all the scenic overlooks, I wanted to squeeze in one more quick hike before dark. I hopped in the car and drove to Mossy Cave and Waterfall. Though it was a very short hike, it’s one of my favorite spots in Bryce. You can’t enter the cave. It’s fairly small and protected by a fence, but you can get close enough to see the water dripping from the mossy roof. The waterfall is the real attraction. You can hear the crashing water all along the hike and can even climb to its source if you’d like. There were many people playing in the water and enjoying the sunset. I stayed until people started leaving and the sun began to set.
The next morning, I had booked a horseback ride to the edge of the canyon. It had been years since I rode a horse. I forgot how sore you get afterwards! The trip was slow and easy. It was the beginner course. I’m glad I did it, though. It seemed very fitting to be on horseback at least once while out West.
Sad to leave Bryce, but excited for what everyone told me would be my favorite park, I headed out toward Zion. When visiting Zion, if you want to stay in a hotel, you have a choice of two major towns – St. George and Springdale. Springdale is right at the entrance to the park, so of course that’s the town I chose.
Springdale, Utah
I expected Springdale to be a bit like Moab. Small town, outside a national park. It couldn’t have been more different. Moab had a gritty feel to it. Both in personality and actual grit from the sand and wind of the terrain. Sure, it had its pricey art shops, but it also had a weathered, authentic feel to it. Springdale on the other hand is like one of those quaint mountain towns you see in the movies. Scrubbed clean and shiny. A vegan restaurant on every block, right next to the art gallery, across from the breakfast café with the line out the door every morning because it’s the only place you can get a decent cup of coffee. If the towns were people, Moab would be a scruffy old cowboy and Springdale would be a dreadlocked 20-something with a gluten allergy on vacation paid for by his parents. I love both towns as a I would my children, if I had any, but I definitely had a favorite.
Another advantage to staying in Springdale, despite its proximity to the park (you can literally walk to the entrance) is that it has a free bus system. You can hop on the bus from many spots throughout the town and ride to the entrance of Zion, where you’ll hop on another bus – the park’s bus system – to get into the park. I hadn’t ridden on so many buses since I was in grade school. The park bus system is to cut down on the environmental disaster of thousands of cars flooding the park each year. They also help with the parking situation, because there isn’t much in the park. Just know that if you plan to visit Zion, you’ll need to budget time for the bus ride to some of the trailheads.
Zion National Park
If Bryce was crowded, Zion was mobbed. I don’t know if it’s its proximity to California or Vegas, or if it’s just more popular than the other parks, but it was the most congested national park I visited in Utah.
True to form, I decided my first hike in the park would be the most challenging. Part of my reasoning was that, at some point, I would fall. It happens on every trip. Not a big fall, but enough to sprain my ankle or scrape my knee. I had to make sure I finished the most challenging hike before that happened. In Zion, outside of the Narrows, the most challenging hike is Angel’s Landing. Once again, I chose to start this hike in early afternoon, as known as, “the hottest part of the day.”
When the guidebooks tell you the hike is challenging, believe them. When the park map tells you that the hike is a level 4, the level assigned to the most challenging hikes in the park, believe it. The hike is no joke, particularly in the hottest part of the day, during the hottest month of the summer. My advice, is start early, take lots of water and pace yourself.
I’ve never seen switchbacks like the ones on the Angel’s Landing hike. It wasn’t just a section of switchbacks, it was switchbacks upon switchbacks, a slight break, then more switchbacks. I’m a regular hiker, though not used to altitude hiking since I left Colorado. I work out regularly and I love the heat. But this hike challenged me. I knew I was in trouble when the outwardly looking in-shape young’uns I started out next to but slowly passed never caught up to me. (I didn’t see them when I came down either!) Many people, I learned, start this hike but don’t finish. I paced myself against a young guy who was also hiking alone. Like me, he took frequent breaks in the shade and drank plenty of water. There is one spot, about two thirds of the way through the hike where you go through a cooler section that is shaded and wooded. It’s a nice respite, but a brief one. Then more switchbacks. The view from the top is nice, but if I have to be honest, it’s not the reason to do the hike. It’s more of an endurance challenge. One of those “enjoy the journey not the destination” hikes. I was disappointed to find that the chain to the tip top (just 20 feet or so from the landing) was closed due to COVID. No one was policing it so I suppose I could’ve climbed it, but it was quite steep and I hadn’t fallen yet that day so I didn’t risk it. (No one else was climbing it either.)
That night I stayed at the LaQuinta Inn and sampled some local brews at the Zion Brew Pub. I ordered a flight and learned that Utah law doesn’t allow a person to have more than two alcoholic beverages in front of them at any time. So, they brought me two of my four samples at a time.
The next day, my last full day in Utah, I started my day with a hike to the upper and lower emerald pools in Zion. It was a beautiful spot and much cooler than the hike to Angel’s Landing.
Next up was the riverside walk to the Narrows. I didn’t hike the Narrows, though. It was really hard to pass on that adventure, but there was a deadly algae in the water and knowing my lack of balance, I’d trip and ingest it. That didn’t stop many others, young and old, from partaking in the experience. It was a tough decision for me. The Narrows is a hike up a river. What we call creek walking in Missouri. The park ranger I spoke with said it’s like walking on a bunch of bowling balls with water rushing over them. I have a hard enough time walking on flat surfaces without falling. She also told me that the algae would be harmful if ingested or if it got into any hole – your eyes, ears, a cut on your knee, etc. Plus, I’d have to rent gear and that meant taking a bus back to the entrance. (The gear you rent is water boots and a walking stick.) If I’d had more time and had a partner with me, I would’ve done it, but I didn’t want to chance it. Maybe my adventurer card should be revoked for passing. Or maybe it’s just an opportunity to return some day and complete it.
One thing I have to comment on about the short hike (one mile) to the start of the Narrows is that the squirrels are the fattest I’ve ever seen. Apparently, it’s a real problem the park struggles with. People feed them. Too much. I witnessed this and almost turned the woman in, I was so angry.
The other interesting thing about the walk to the Narrows is that some people were wearing their masks along the hike. Rightly protecting themselves from COVID. However, some of those same people were perfectly fine getting into potentially life-threatening bacteria water. The disconnect puzzled me.
My last hike of the day was a short one and one you drive to since it’s not on the main park road. It’s called Canyon Overlook Trail. I believe it’s only about two miles round trip, but not to be missed. The overlook is breathtaking. A great view of the canyons and you get to pass through a small cave along the way. Pretty easy hike. Of course, this is the hike where I fell. I was about 20 feet from my car, crossing some slick rock on my way to the stairs down the side of the hill when I slipped. Scraped up my knees pretty bad, but that’s all. The worst part is I fell right in front of two other hikers, one of whom was just telling her boyfriend she was a little afraid of the hike. At least I chose the last day for my fall.
That night I had a wonderful dinner at the Whip Tail Grill. Goat cheese and spaghetti squash enchiladas on a nice outdoor patio with misters gently spraying from above. A great way to end my last full day in Utah.
The next morning, I decided to squeeze in one more quick glimpse of Zion. Kolob Canyons, north of where I stayed in Springdale, had just opened back up and I couldn’t miss the opportunity to see it. I drove the scenic drive, stopping along the way for photos.
All in all, Zion is a beautiful park, but not my favorite of the five. That spot is shared by Arches and Bryce.
My flight from Vegas to St. Louis was at 3:55 p.m., giving me enough time for a quick stop in St. George. To be honest, there was not a whole lot to see there. I was glad I chose to stay in Springdale as my Zion instead.
Utah is an amazing state. I think if I had to choose just one place to return to though it would be Moab. Zion may be most people’s favorite, but as far as location goes, Moab gives you the most bang for your buck – close to two national parks, plus great state parks, petroglyphs, etc.
If Utah’s been on your list, don’t wait as long as I did. You won’t be sorry you explored this magnificent state and its 5 national parks.
My 8-day Utah itinerary
Day 1: Arrived in Utah at 5 p.m. Big Cottonwood Canyon. Walked around Silver Lake at dusk.
Day 2: Drove to Moab. Saw Dead Horse Point State Park, hiked in Canyonlands National Park.
Day 3: Hiked at Arches National Park during the day. Sunset at Canyonlands.
Day 4: Sego Valley. Goblin Valley State Park. Capitol Reef National Park. Night in Torrey.
Day 5: Scenic Byway 12. Bryce Canyon National Park. Night at Ruby’s Inn.
Day 6: Horseback riding in Bryce. Drive to Zion National Park. Hiking in Zion. Night in Springdale.
Day 7: Hiking in Zion.
Day 8: Kolob Canyons in Zion. Drive to Vegas and fly home.
When your passion is travel and you’re living through the COVID-19 pandemic, what do you do? You road trip. My mom and I originally planned a Springfield, Missouri trip for April 2020, but at that point everything with closing fast. So, after almost four months of “lockdown,” and with some things finally starting to open, it was time to try again. And this time was a success!
Fortunately, the Air BNB I booked back in April was available in July so I quickly rebooked. The property, Madeline Cottage, was just what we needed. Two nice sized bedrooms, a fenced in yard for my pup and a great location just a few miles from almost everything we visited.
For those of you who aren’t from Missouri, Springfield is in the southwest portion of the state, not too far from Branson. It’s a three-hour drive from the St. Louis suburbs, making it a nice long weekend destination.
We left around 9 a.m. on a Thursday and arrived at our first stop, Wilson’s Creek at 2:30. Along the way we stopped for lunch and spent more than a few minutes – and a few dollars – exploring the walnut bowls store (Shepherd Hills Outlet) and Russell Stover outlet in Lebanon, Missouri. (Darn billboards tempted me!)
By the time we got to Wilson’s Creek Battlefield it was afternoon and really hot. The gates were open – no fees collected, due to the pandemic. Unfortunately, the visitor’s center was closed, but the brochures were available and the park offers a voice-guided tour accessible by a phone, so all in all we had enough information to get the most out of the tour.
At the first stop, we got out and explored the trail down by the creek, Gibson’s Mill trail. The creek was larger than I expected and the rushing water set a calming tone in a place that saw so much violence. We spent another hour or so exploring the rest of the sites in the park. One of the most sobering stops was Bloody Hill. At one point during the battle, a sinkhole served as a temporary burial site. A humble memorial to Nathaniel Lyon is also located there.
The next day we spent about three hours touring the Wonders of the World Aquarium. This attraction was the primary reason for our trip and it didn’t disappoint. The experience truly makes you feel like you’re swimming with the sea life. The exhibits are dark and at grand scale. Definitely worth a stop, particularly if you’re traveling with children.
Lunch at the legendary and highly recommended Black Sheep Burgers provided the fuel we needed to tour Mike’s Unique Flea market, followed by a visit to the Mizumoto Japanese Stroll Garden and stop at the butterfly house. (Note: The Japanese Garden is free if you have a Missouri Botanical Garden membership, through the reciprocal gardens program. Otherwise, it’s just $4.)
A trip to Mother’s Brewing Co was a nice way to wind down after a long day of sightseeing. And, because there are just so many breweries to see and we were still thirsty, we made one last stop at White River tap room.
Saturday was another full day, beginning with a trip to the Springfield History Museum. Their website claims they were voted America’s #1 Best New Attraction by USA Today, and I must admit I was a bit skeptical. However, I have to agree that it is a top-notch history museum. Extremely interactive, educational and thorough – covering the city from its early founding to its importance as a destination along Route 66. I guarantee you’ll learn something new. Gave me a whole new appreciation for Missouri and its importance in U.S history. Plus, there’s a really cool story about how cobras once took over the town! I won’t spoil it, but if you want to learn more, visit this site. There’s even a beer named after this incident at Mother’s.
I don’t know if it’s because of the pandemic, the fact that it was summer and all the college kids were home or just the state of the city, but the historic downtown section of Springfield had more than a few homeless people.
Our adventure continued to C-Street. Again, not sure if was the pandemic or a sign of an area in decline, but there were many empty buildings and closed businesses. We had a light lunch at a Lebanese restaurant across the street from the farmer’s market then spent the rest of the afternoon at Relics Antique Mall. You could spend an entire day in this place. Really nice quality booths. Something for everyone. After two hours of shopping, you work up an appetite and I have a strict rule when I travel that I must scout out the city’s local donut scene. The establishment of choice for the Springfield trip was Hurts Donut (though I later learned it is a chain). Get it? Hurts…don’t it? I had the s’mores yeast donut and a blueberry cake donut. My mom had the key lime pie. All were excellent.
That night we booked a ghost tour of Pythian Castle. Before heading over, we decided to try one more brewery. I found the perfect one that met all my criteria: located in a historic building (old fire house), nice selection of lighter beers and on the street named after my 5th great grandfather (John Stuart Kimbrough). Hold Fast Brewing is a newer brewery – established in 2019. It had a great vibe to it and equally good beer. Plus, they fawned all over my dog, so I may be a bit biased.
Pythian Castle is now privately owned but was once the local headquarters for the Knights of Pythias. I just so happen to have a membership coin from one of my dad great great uncles (Floyd Kimbrough). I wanted to learn more about the knights and they promised ghost stories – a combination impossible for me to resist. The castle is impressive. Feels a little out of place in Missouri. Looks more like something you’d see in Europe. This added to its mystery. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and did a good job of mixing ghost stories and history along the way. Sadly, we didn’t encounter any ghosts. But the tour was fun, regardless. My only complaint is they had goofy statues in a few places (a gargoyle and a giant creature) for photo ops. Unnecessary. The building and its history are interesting enough on its own!
The next day, before heading home, we had brunch at the Aviary Cafe. Another recommendation from friends and coworkers. Due to the pandemic and the fact that I had my dog with me, we ate outside. I chose a sweet crepe, but they have a nice variety of savory options, too. The food was impeccable as was my cappuccino (meaning I didn’t have to sweeten it or add more cream!).
So that’s my four-day whirlwind trip to Springfield. I’m sure there are many more places to see, but I feel like the sights we saw give a nice overview of the town and the many options it offers. From the outdoors to art to history to marine life, there’s something for everyone. If you haven’t already, put Springfield on your weekend getaway short list.
January 2015 visit to Springfield, Illinois for the first time. Solo road trip. (1 Day)
Just an hour and a half drive from St. Louis, Missouri is the former home of one of the nation’s greatest presidents and a home designed by one of the country’s greatest architects. Though they lived decades apart, Lincoln and Frank Lloyd Wright both feature prominently in the quiet little town of Springfield, Illinois.
Entering Springfield for the first time I was a little surprised. Not sure exactly what I was expecting, but it wasn’t what I encountered. Springfield, IL is your typical little highway town. Golden Coral and McDonalds greet you as you exit the highway along with the other places that thrive in those little towns. After about three or so miles in it started to look more like a historic town. A little like downtown Kirkwood, Missouri. Very quaint — but only in the area immediately around the capitol building.
My first stop was the Lincoln Museum. It was a quiet day. I arrived at 11 a.m. and was immediately accosted by a museum greeter who tried to get me to join the foundation. I declined and purchased my one-day ticket at a $1 AAA discount.
The museum was very impressive. It was like history told by Disney. Made learning even more fun. The first thing you see it Abraham Lincoln and his family in mannequin form. The museum is divided up into different sections, highlighting different parts of Lincoln’s life, from his early years to high time in the white house. A wonderful exhibit. Interactive. Informative. I learned a lot in the two hours I spent there.
One of the most fascinating parts was a hallway featuring all the bad press Lincoln received in his day. I had no idea how hated he was by some at the time, but I guess it makes sense. The country was at its most divided.
After the museum, I was ready for lunch. Fortunately I had already scoped out a place – Incredibly Delicious. It was a quaint restaurant in a historic home. You ordered from a pastry counter and then pick a room to sit in. I had the quiche with ham and cheese.Each room was different. It was like eating in someone’s home and the food was wonderful.
After lunch, I headed over to the Lincoln home. It’s run by the national parks service and is just as informative, but much less flashy than the museum. I found it fascinating how simply Lincoln lived when he was at home. (He spent a lot of time on the road as a lawyer.) The guide was fantastic and eager to answer any questions our group had. Definitely worth a stop.
At this point I was starting to run out of time. I needed to be back in St. Louis by 7:30 to attend my birthday dinner with my family. But I didn’t want to miss the Frank Lloyd Wright house – the Susan Lawrence Dana Thomas house. I headed over on foot to the house and caught one of the last tours of the day.
The Dana Thomas home was the first time I’d ever been to a Frank Lloyd Wright house. It was quite an experience. To say I was blown away would be an understatement. I felt things in the building. The architecture made me feel compressed then free, just as the tour guide was explaining that this was on purpose. I fell in love with Frank Lloyd Wright. Every thing about the house was perfect. The grand entrance. Dining room with seating for a minimum of 40 people. Amazing art glass. The way it made the most of the nautral light. It made me want to go see many more Wright homes.
The tour took about an hour so it was about 4:00 at this time. I had to hurry over to the Oak Park Cemetery to see the Lincoln tomb.
Once again I was blown away, but in a different way. It was a very somber, serious place. I was the only one, other than the docent, who was in the tomb at the time. I made a point to thank Lincoln for his service and for keeping the country together during a difficult time so that I could live in this wonderful country and enjoy its freedoms today.
After that I headed home for birthday dinner with the family. A great one-day trip from St. Louis. Highly recommend!
May 29, 2017 Visit – Solo, 24-hour trip from St. Louis to Pittsburgh
So I finally got to see Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater. It’s been on my list for a long time so I had high expectations and I’m happy to say it didn’t disappoint.
Upon arrival, I felt like I had been transported into another world. The grounds (153 acres) are covered in oversized rhododendrons and laurels. Ferns provide a feathery ground cover. So green and lush. It was also very damp. Obviously, there is the stream running through it! But though the weather was clear, the grounds felt as if it had just lightly showered. The light was heavily filtered by a large tree canopy. It almost felt like you were in a big shady cave.
You cannot see the house from the visitors’ center. It’s a short walk down a path. I purchased the in-depth tour so I got to see areas of the house they don’t normally show people on the regular house tour. I also got to take photos which is normally not allowed.
Our tour guide was perfect. Henry. A short, rounded, older man with a cane. He walked slowly and really took his time with us, allowing us to move through the house at his pace.
What most amazes you when you see it is how much it’s built into the natural surroundings. I know that’s the point, but it is still hard to imagine until you see it. The sound of the waterfall is ever-present when you’re outside. Inside, you only have to open a window to hear it.
The tour was a little over two hours, but it felt like it flew by. Like time stopped when you were in the house. This was the Kaufman’s summer home, but I could imagine living there full time. (If I had millions of dollars.) They say it would have cost the equivalent of $2.4 million in today’s dollars to build it. As it stands now, the windows need to be replaced. The estimated cost, Henry told us, half a million dollars.
The attention to detail was incredible: Cutting a half circle in the desk so that a window could open inward, corner windows that opened together – one in and one out – eliminating the corner element and a natural, waterfall-fed swimming pool. But the most amazing thing by far was the glass window opening that allowed you to walk down some steps from the living room into the stream itself. Just spectacular. And it was all covered by the glass windows, allowing light in and protecting you from the rain and other elements.
After seeing Fallingwater, I toured the Duncan house. Though quite nice, it was quite a bit less spectacular, but I’m still glad I took the time to visit it.
One thing to note, the closest metropolitan area with an airport is Pittsburg. If you fly in, know that you will have to do quite a bit of driving. Still, I did it all in 24 hours – and maybe the best 24 hour trip I’ve ever taken.
Living close to Chicago, I’ve visited Wright’s studio and the Robie House. I’ve also toured the Dana Thomas House in Springfield and, of course, the Kraus house in Ebsworth Park. But Fallingwater really is in a category of its own. If you’re a Wright fan and haven’t visited, move this one up to the top of your list.
Travel Date: July 2010
You’re going to Alaska…ALONE? That’s the question family, friends and coworkers asked me again and again when I told them about my big trip to Alaska. I suffered from constant bear jokes tossed at me by my boss. But in the end, all of the teasing and hand wringing was worth it. I was on my way to Alaska—and for just $10!
It all started when I received an email from United Airlines. “Alaska sale! For a limited time, you can fly to Alaska for just 20,000 frequent flyer miles.” At first I didn’t believe it. Even if it was true, the chances that it applied to St. Louis were slim. But I punched in my dates and applied my miles and the next thing I knew, I was going to Alaska.
I flew in to Anchorage on Monday, July 25. It was pouring rain and visibility was low. No mountains in sight. The weather report called for rain all week. Fortunately, I was prepared. (I had read that it rained a lot in Alaska.)
My first stop was a trip to the outdoor supply store for bear mace. I’d be doing some hiking alone so I wanted to be prepared in case I met a furry friend along the way. (The only bears I ended up seeing were from vehicles—two separate instances where black bears crossed the road in front of me—and multiple sightings from the tour bus in Denali National Park.)
Anchorage is like most US cities, with the exception that its moose population outnumbers the human residents, but there is still plenty to see there.
One of the highlights was biking the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail—a 10-mile (each way) stretch of paved trail that bordered the ocean on one side. It offered great views of the Anchorage skyline and I got to see a bull moose, a cow and two calves—just a few feet from the trail.
No trip to Anchorage would be complete without a drive Seward. Just 120 miles south of Anchorage, Seward is a quiet little town with shops and ice cream parlors. Not much to see. The scenic drive to the town is the real attraction. It passes by mountains, oceans filled with beluga whales and other sea life, glaciers, rushing streams and waterfalls. If you only have one day to sightsee in and around Anchorage, this is the road to do it on.
Along the way, I stopped off for a little hiking. There are numerous trails off the Seward highway, each offers a unique experience. I chose a trail that overlooked the bay. I was the only car at the trailhead parking lot, so I unpacked my bear spray before heading out.
The first part of the trail was pretty easy, but about half way through the gentle incline turned into a steep scramble to the top. I was just yards away from the peak when I heard something rustling in the brush. The woods were thick and wet with rain, so visibility was poor. I didn’t need to wait and find out what was lurking there. I turned quickly, but quietly, and made my way back to the car. Hiking in Alaska is definitely more intense than Missouri or Colorado!
I also stopped to hike to two glaciers along the way—the Burns Glacier and the Exit Glacier. Though once massive, rock-carving monsters, they’ve now melted to a fraction of their original sizes.
The real highlight of my Alaskan adventure took place about four and a half hours north of Anchorage in Denali National Park. Denali features six million acres of wilderness that is pristine thanks to protections put in place by the National Park Service. Only the first 15 miles of the park road is paved. The other 77 miles are restricted to park buses only. This limits the amount of traffic to the interior and protects the diverse wildlife that call the park home.
Denali is home to Mount McKinley—the largest mountain in North America—as well as grizzlies, moose, wolves, caribou and various other wildlife. I opted for the 12-hour bus tour, all the way to Wonder Lake. It was the longest option, but I was only there a day so I wanted to see as much as I could. The buses are great. You can get out wherever you want and wander off into the wilderness or go for a hike on a designated trail. The only rule—the bus couldn’t let you off within a mile of a wildlife sighting. This is to protect the wildlife more than it is to protect people.
If you plan to go to Denali, which if you’re going to Alaska you should plan to do, allow for at least three days. I spent a day and a half there and it just wasn’t enough time.
But what can you expect when you get your airfare for free? All in all it was a trip of a lifetime and it really reminded me how great and beautiful this country is.
