Into history? Then you probably already know that St. Louis was founded in 1764 by Pierre Laclede and Auguste Chouteau. You know that we’re called the “Gateway to the West.” We were the launching off point for the Lewis and Clark Corps of Discovery Expedition, commissioned by Thomas Jefferson (my favorite president for many reasons, including his contribution in ensuring Missouri became part of the U.S.). We hosted the 1904 Olympics and 1904 World’s Fair. That’s all easily Google-able – St. Louis history, St. Louis historic sites … But do you know that many years before Europeans even stepped foot onto what would be U.S. soil, the St. Louis area was home to a thriving Native American society who built the largest earthen structure in North America and traded with other civilizations up and down the Mississippi all the way to the Gulf of Mexico? Do you know that our Eads Bridge was the world’s first steel-truss bridges? And that we were home to some of the biggest beer barons who ever graced this country? And the first Kindergarten in the U.S.?
If you said, “yes” to any of these, can I be your friend? Seriously, you will appreciate all the history St. Louis has to offer. No, we don’t have the same pedigree or history as New England or anything. But you’ll notice how much we like to say, “…the first [insert thing here] west of the Mississippi.” If it happened west of the Mississippi, it happened here first. And we’re not lying.
I’ve been digging deeper into St. Louis historic sites on a monthly basis, thanks to the St. Louis Historic Sites Meetup for the past few years, and I still haven’t scratched the surface of all the history the area has to offer. Here are my top 10 St. Louis historic sites … at least so far. You could spends weeks exploring the many other excellent historic sites the city has to offer.
1. The Cahokia Mounds.
Long before St. Louis became the Gateway to the West, a great civilization called the land just east of the Mississippi River home. A portion of the land they occupied is now preserved as an Illinois historic site, featuring the largest earthen mound in North America – Monk’s Mound. A great way to spend an afternoon, the site offers many activities and is sure to entertain the kids. The visitor’s center and interpretive site – free. Plus, you can walk the trails to see various mounds and Woodhenge. One trail leads you on a climb up the great Monk’s Mound where (on a clear day) you can see the St. Louis Arch.
Personal note: When I was in college I volunteered at the Cahokia Mounds for about a year. I was the one who gave the talk before the movie started and stood around answering visitors’ questions at the exhibits. It still has a special place in my heart, and I feel it’s so under-appreciated. So that’s why it’s number one on my list.
2. Old St. Louis Courthouse.
Often overlooked due to its more flashier neighbor on the riverfront, the Old St. Louis Courthouse is a must-see on your way to the arch. Part of the larger Gateway Arch National Park (formerly Jefferson Expansion National Park), the Old Court House is run by the National Parks department and offers free tours daily. The courthouse is no longer functioning. You won’t see any modern day trials, but a few very famous trials occurred here in the past, most notably the first two trials of the Dred Scott case. Out in front of the courthouse you’ll find a gorgeous statue of Dred and Harriett Scott. Stop for a photo, then head up the steps for an incredible shot of the arch. Inside, the architecture will take your breath away. The intricate spiral steps (shown below) are one of my personal favorites. There’s also a nice natural history exhibit to take in, too. You can spend about an hour or so exploring with a guide or on your own. It’s particularly decked out for the fourth of July, if you’re lucky enough to visit then.
One of my favorite parts of the courthouse. Amazing attention to detail on these steps! 
View of the courthouse from Kiener Plaza. 
Dred and Harriet Scott statue commemorating their struggle for freedom in the St. Louis courts. 
A great spot to watch the fireworks during Fair St. Louis – America’s birthday celebration.
3. Bellefontaine Cemetery and Arboretum.
If it’s a nice day out and you want to get your steps in and learn about history, there are not many better places to spend a day in St. Louis than Bellefontaine Cemetery. How morbid! Not really. If you put your history hat on, you’ll remember that in Victorian times when city folk wanted to get away from the dirt and grime of downtown, they’d spend their Sunday afternoons having a picnic and playing games out in the sprawling green beauty of the cemetery. Only in more recent times have we so distanced ourselves from the dead.
Bellefontaine is not just a cemetery. It’s also an arboretum. The rolling hills, majestic trees and wildlife will make you forget you’re walking amongst the dead.
The tours are mostly FREE and about two hours. There’s a tour for any historic view you’d like to take of the grounds. Into women’s history? There’s a tour for it. Civil War? There’s a tour for it. Beer? Yep, a tour for it. Civil Rights? You guessed it – there’s a tour for it. The guides are amazing and each has his or her own perspective and passion for the site. Can’t recommend enough.
4. The Campbell House.
Step back in time to Gilded Age of St. Louis, when there was a utensil for every type of food. (Asparagus server anyone?) When presidents and leaders of the day, including Ulysses S. Grant, dropped by for a visit. Touring the Campbell House feels like a time travel experience. The entire house is preserved to the state it was when Robert Campbell lived there, beginning in the 1850s.
The story of the family is fascinating. Immigrant with humble beginnings. Started as a mountain man and made a fortune in fur trading then moved on to banking. The American dream come true, with the exception of the many children lost and no blood heir.
The first time I visited the home it was a rainy Saturday. I rang the bell and was greeted by a volunteer who took me on a private tour of the home. I still remember when she opened the drawing room pocket doors to reveal a room preserved as if it were 1885. I gasped. I am not lying, I literally gasped at the scene. Simply amazing. And that’s just the first room you’ll see.
If you want to imagine how the wealthy lived at the peak of St. Louis prosperity at the time, there really is no comparison.
5. The Lemp Mansion.
One of the original beer barons in St. Louis, John Adam Lemp started his beer dynasty on the banks of the Mississippi River long before the Arch called it home. Later moving just south of St. Louis, he took advantage of the limestone cave system in the city which creates an ideal environment for lagering beer. The brewery is no longer in existence, but the family’s sad legacy lives on in its ghostly tales. Plagued by tragedy, suicides and mystery, the former Lemp home is a hotspot for spirits. You can tour the mansion or even stay overnight – if you dare. The mansion is also open for dinner. Stop by on any Saturday evening, spring through fall, and you’ll likely see a wedding in the courtyard or around the corner at the carriage house. If you like historic homes, this is a great one to tour. A few photos from my 2020 visit, below.
6. White Haven (Ulysses S. Grant’s Home).
A fascinating study in determination and pure grit, Ulysses S. Grant, like Lincoln, gives me hope that the most ordinary of us can accomplish great things through time and perseverance. Grant was said to have once been so destitute that he sold firewood in the streets of St. Louis. Yet he became a hero of the Civil War and our 18th president!
White Haven was actually the home of his wife, Julia Dent’s family. Privately owned until the 1990s, the National Park Service now runs the site and offers free tours daily. The house itself is pretty stark, but the stable-turned-museum offers a nice history lesson on Grant’s life. After you tour the home, stop by Grant’s Farm just across the parking lot and see the log home Grant built.
7. Daniel Bissell Home.
You might be wondering why this St. Louis historic site made my list. You likely haven’t heard of Daniel Bissell. Really, a top 10 rating for a retired General who was active in local history?
There are two reasons I chose this for my top 10: 1. the interesting artifacts preserved and accessible at this site and 2. the ghost. Yes, this is one of those rare moments in my life when I’ve had what may have been a ghostly encounter. Our entire tour group experienced it. It was a loud crashing sound on the lower level. No one else was in the house and the guide/caretaker confirmed that the ghost is what we heard. He was very familiar with it since he spent so much time at the house.
Aside from that, the family artifacts, including the old bible, shown below, are just amazing. Side note, why is there always at least one creepy doll in every old house like this?
8. First Capitol in St. Charles.
All of Main Street in old St. Charles is a historic treasure, with the gem being the first capitol of Missouri. This site is where the area’s first leaders met. It offers a nice glimpse into what life was life on the frontier and when Lewis and Clark began their Corps of Discovery.
After your tour of the capital, take one of the walking tours up and down Main Street to learn more about the history of the area. There’s also a lot of nice shopping and dining. Or just head down toward the water and take in the view of the wild and rough Missouri River.
Throughout the year there are a lot of different festivals along the riverfront, including the Mosaics Art Festival and the Festival of the Little Hills. If you’re lucky enough to visit during Christmas Traditions you’ll find a host of characters from Christmases past roaming the street, caroling and interacting with passersby.
9. Nuclear Waste Trail and Museum at the Weldon Spring Site.
If you’re going to talk about St. Louis history, it’s hard not to mention our connection to the Manhattan Project. We’re still dealing with some of the “fallout” today. A dark time in our history for sure, but at this trail and museum in Weldon Spring is a positive step forward. The site is managed by the U.S. Department of Energy Office of Legacy Management and, according to its brochure, its aim is, “connecting lessons from the past with a vision for the future” and it does a good job of it, in my opinion.
I spent about 45 minutes in the museum and another 20 minutes or so hiking to the top of the disposal cell. One thing you’ll learn about me is if there’s a hill or mountain or observation deck to climb to get the optimal view, I’m there.
The top of the disposal cell offers a nice panoramic view of St Charles County. You almost forget that you’re standing on top of a pile of buried uranium.
But there’s a happy story in all of this. True, this site was once a farming community that was repurposed into a explosive producing manufacturing machine during WWII (1941-1945). And yes, the site later processed uranium-ore and thorium (1957-1966). But beginning in 1985 and ending in 2001, a clean-up project began that transformed the site into the trail and museum it is today. It’s a testament to how something good can come out of something horrible. I don’t want to spoil the story for you – there’s a lot to learn at the museum. Definitely an important lesson for us all and a great way to spend a sunny afternoon. History + hiking. Doesn’t get much better than that.
10. The Civil War Museum.
Located in the historic Jefferson Barracks Park, the Civil War Museum offers a nice collection of artifacts, two levels of displays and a short film. One of the artifacts that really appealed to my morbid sense of adventure – a cooling board. I had never before seen such a thing. It’s like a table with holes in it. Ice was placed beneath it to keep the body cold so it wouldn’t decompose before burial. Just one of the fascinating things you’ll find in this museum.
The main reason this made my list is, as a Missouri native, I really appreciate our state’s small part in the war. We were truly a divided state – brother against brother. A mix of both sides of the conflict. I’m also fascinated by this war more than any other because it was truly the make it or break it war for our country (at least so far).
Finally, it would be a tragedy of historic proportions if I didn’t mention the Missouri History Museum and Soldier’s Memorial on this list. Though not technically a St. Louis historic site, the history museum is definitely THE place to learn about Missouri history. The organization has done so much to support and preserve the city’s past and hosts an excellent rotating exhibits and great programs – most of them FREE.